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Pic1)
The lathe base is made from a 3/4 inch thick pine board that is 20 inches long and 4.5 inches wide.
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Pic2)
The mount for the power Rotary Tool is also made from 3/4 inch thick pine board. Several pieces of board were glued together to form a 4 inch long by 2.5 inch wide by 1.25 inch high notched block cradle. The mount is glued to the left end of the lathe base and set back 1.5 inches from the front of the base and 1/2 inch forward from the back.
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Pic3)
The power Rotary Tool is held in place with a large hose clamp.
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Pic4)
The hose clamp is fed through a slot that was cut out on the bottom of the Rotary Tool mount - before it was glued to the base.
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Pic5)
Front right side view of the Rotary Tool mount. I cut the head off a small wood screw and mounted it in the Rotary Tool to act as a faceplate.
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Pic6)
The tailstock is fully adjustable from right to left and is locked in place using the knob on top.
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Pic7)
The point on tailstock is a small nail with its head cut off. It's location was found (after the tailstock rails were glued in place - see Pic11) by mounting a small drill bit in the Rotary Tool and sliding the tailstock into it - drilling the hole for the nail.
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Pic8)
A stepped slot was cut through the lathe base for the tailstock locking bolt to slide along. The slot starts at the Rotary Tool mount and stops just before the right end of the lathe base. This is a view from the top.
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Pic9)
This is a view of the slot from the bottom of the base.
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Pic10)
This is another view of the stepped slot from the bottom. The larger slot is 7/8 inch in diameter and was cut first into the bottom of the base. It is 1/4 inch deep and was cut by moving the base slowly through a drill press using a 7/8 inch Forstner wood drill bit. The smaller cut-through slot was made in the same way but with a 3/8 inch Forstner wood drill bit. The metal tailstock "slider", at the head of the lock-down bolt, can be seen in its slot track.
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Pic11)
Two rails were glued length-wise (1.5 inches apart) to the base to act as guides for the tailstock and a "stop block" was glued to the right end of the base. The front and rear tailstock rails are 1/2 cm high by 1/2 inch wide by 15.75 inches long. The back rail was raised higher by gluing another 1/2 inch wide by 3/4 inch high pine block on top. An 8 inch long paint stir stick was added to the top of the rear rail just in front of the fully extended tailstock. This "shelf" is used to hold duplicating templates.
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Pic12)
The 1.5 inch thick tailstock is made from two pine blocks glued together. A 1/4 inch diameter hole was drilled through the center for the 3.5 inch long 1/4 inch diameter "locking" bolt. At the head of the bolt, a "glider" was made by folding a piece of galvanized metal over a small washer. The bolt is locked in place by tightening the store-bought plastic covered 3-sided wing nut against another small washer on top of the tailstock.
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Pic13)
A view of the tailstock from the top.
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Pic14)
A close-up view of the "slider" at the bottom of the tailstock.
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Pic15)
"X" "Y" Tables were made from 3/4 inch thick pine wood blocks and paint stir sticks.
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Pic16)
The lower "right-left" Table is an "L" shaped piece of 3/4 inch pine block (3.5 inches by 4.5 inches overall with two 1.5 inch wide arms) with a slot cut out on its bottom to ride the front tailstock rail. A small wood rail (1/4 inch high by 3/4 inch wide by 7 inches long) was glued on top to guide the upper "forward-backward" Table.
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Pic17)
The upper "forward-backward" Table is made from a 1.5 inch wide by 4 inch long by 3/4 inch thick piece of pine wood with a slot cut out on the bottom to fit the rail attached to the lower "right-left" Table.
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Pic18)
The cutter head was made by grinding down the base-end of an old drill bit and power sanding it to create a cutting edge. The holder for the cutter head was made from four pieces of a paint stir stick - three on the bottom to set the right height - middle of the wood being turned - and one on top to lock the head in position using two screws. A tiny slot was out of the top of the third height stick to hold the drill bit cutting head in position. A popsicle stick was shaped and screwed to the side of the upper table to act as the duplicating pointer guide.
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Pic19)
A bottom view of the two Tables.
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Pic20)
An internal view of the cutter head mount.
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Pic21)
Another internal view of the cutter head mount - from the other side.
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Pic22)
A cutting edge view of the upper Table.
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Pic23)
A right side view of the two Tables.
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Pic24)
A left side view of the two Tables.
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Pic25)
A close-up view - ready to cut a round toothpic into a belaying pin. The tailstock will be used when I turn my cannons.
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